Abkhazia-Georgia: Kodori Gorge

Here is a recent article I found interesting. Georgia has sent troops into a remote mountain gorge on the border with breakaway region, Abkhazia, and says they want to set up a 'government-in-exile' for Abkhazia here. Georgia has been trying to regain control of the region since a bitter civil war between the two regions in 1993-1994. The border has been closed since, and Abkhazia is supported by the Russian government.


Military-Georgian Help
Russian volunteers have come to protect Abkhazia
First volunteers from Russia’s republics of North Caucasus appeared in Abkhazia yesterday. Commanders of the volunteers said that thousands of people from Adygea, Kabardino-Balkaria, and Karachaevo-Cherkesia will follow them to protect Russia’s interests. After the operation in the Kodori gorge and the return of Abkhaz government-in-exile to Kodori, the authorities of Abkhazia and of Georgia are getting ready for war.
“The main danger of Kodori is political”

Kommersant

Around 20 volunteers came to agree with Abkhaz authorities on cooperation. Ruslan Tokov, leader of the Union of Volunteers from Kabardino-Balkaria, promised that thousands of volunteers are ready to come. This time, he said, volunteers will be organized, unlike in the previous Georgia-Abkhazia war. Tokov fought in that war in early 1990s, and became Hero of Abkhazia. Uali Evgamukov, his companion-in-arms from Karachaevo-Cherkesia, promised to protect Russian citizens in Abkhazia and the interests of Russia. He added the volunteers will arrive through Sochi and the mountain pass from Karachaevo-Cherkesia.

The arrival of volunteers was to tell Georgian officials that their actions in Kodori, where they are trying to install Abkhaz government-in-exile which was in Tbilisi since 1993, can lead to a real war. However, North Caucasus volunteers are rather a problem than a gift for Abkhaz authorities. There are off-the-record talks that Abkhazia will get help from Russian Ministry of Defense anyway. But it will be difficult to manage mountaineers unaccustomed to army discipline.

“Discipline is the main thing in war,” Abkhaz President Sergey Bagapsh told the leaders of North Caucasus public movements. He urged volunteers to obey army men’s orders, and asked not to create confusion and hinder the professional army. “Now, if there is war, it will be a different war,” he said.

President Bagapsh said that Abkhazia strengthened its fleet with enough ships, bought airplanes, and is ready to repulse any aggressor who might come to Abkhazia. Certainly, he meant Georgian troops. Yet, he believes the Kodori gorge by itself is not dangerous for Abkhazia: “If large-scale actions begin, I am least of all worried about the Kodori gorge. I rather fear for 210 kilometers of sea border, and for Gali region. These are the directions from which we have expected attack all this time.” Nearly all military officials in Abkhazia say that Georgian troops carried out a special operation in Kodori just to attract Abkhaz army into the mountains, and then attack from the sea. Everyone knows that Georgian army will not pass through the Kodori gorge, because it is too narrow for bringing military equipment through it. So, the main danger coming from Kodori is political. If the government-in-exile sets here, there will be 2 governments in Abkhazia. President Bagapsh said that “after Georgia had rudely broke all agreements, Abkhazia reserves the right to exit all negotiation processes and to return control over the upper part of the Kodori gorge.” So, Abkhaz authorities will not have government-in-exile in Kodori, and might even use force to get rid of it. However, President Bagapsh added there are strong frosts and snow in the gorge from October to May, so the government-in-exile will hardly sit there till winter.

Svans were not forgiven for agreement with Abkhazians

Abkhaz Ministry of Defense maintains that Georgia increases the number of soldiers in Kodori not to wage war, but to protect the government-in-exile. Deputy Minister of Defense Garri Kupalba said that Georgia brought small units of special forces into the gorge, for instance engineer forces, wiremen, reconnaissance company. “So, they are planning to install a large grouping there. They will be able to open a second front in the gorge if the main front is opened in Gali region for example. Thus, we did not send all our forces into the gorge. We have only strengthened our mountain-rifle battalion,” he said.

Deputy Minister Kupalba thinks that Georgian authorities used Emzar Kvitsiani to get a foothold in the Kodori gorge. “Their aim was to take control over the upper part of the gorge and to plant a parallel administrative structure there. Georgia has been trying to place the government-in-exile there since 1997. In that year, Svans seized the helicopter carrying the ministers, and this is how it ended. Apparently, Svans for not forgiven for it,” said Kupalba.

Svans and Abkhazians had the agreement not to attack each other, and not to allow armed grouping into the upper part of the Kodori gorge. Kvitsiani and Kupalba signed this agreement many years ago. Svans were allowed to export their agricultural products to Abkhazia, and Abkhazia provided helicopters to transport severely ill people to hospitals. “Svans were abandoned without humanitarian aid and Georgian helicopters. They had nothing to do but to make agreements with us, and we benefited from such relations as well. Consequently, good relations have been established between us. Apparently, Georgian authorities did not like it,” said Kupalba.

Garri Kupalba is frequently accused of helping Emzar Kvitsiani. “There is no way I could be helping him. It was Tbilisi. I reported to the UN that Kvitsiani’s people keep bringing weapons into the Kodori gorge, but Georgia refused to respond to this. I have talked to Kvitsiani on the phone and met with him many times, because he was a man with whom it was possible to reach agreement. Yet, we weren’t friends, we were enemies. It was him who brought Gelaev to Abkhazia [Ruslan Gelaev, a Chechen terrorist leader, killed in 2004.—Kommersant], and I couldn’t trust him. So, let those who shout that I’m hiding Kvitsiani in my home become quiet. I’m not hiding him, and he isn’t in Abkhazia,” says Kupalba. “Yet, this is not what matters most. We don’t need to hide Kvitsiani or to provide him with weapons. We have a holiday season, and we don’t need war.”

Even Gali residents came out on the streets

With the risk of another Georgia-Abkhazia war, Russian tourists began to return their tours, and this is a bad thing for Abkhazia. There are many tourists in Gagra and Pitsunda because Russian border is near, but there are almost none in Sukhumi. However, Abkhaz businessmen say that Russian business in the region is the best guarantee of security for Abkhazians.

“A house in Gagra costs as much as a house in Sochi, because Muscovites raised prices,” said Abkhaz entrepreneur Alkhas. “Luzhkov was here 2 weeks ago. Now, they say, even more businessmen will come here.”

Abkhazia is certainly glad to receive Russian businessmen. Yet, local residents will never catch up with Moscow capital, and thus risk to remain without property at all. That is why Abkhaz government allowed to sell real estate to Abkhaz citizens only. Foreigners may lease it or buy together with a citizen of Abkhazia, and the latter should have at least 50 percent. Russians are satisfied with such rules. There already is not enough real estate for everyone.

However, this applies to the territory before Sukhumi. In Sukhumi, the good road ends. Another Abkhazia begins. Not Russia-like. A real one. The town of Ochamchira, which is 2,500 years old, is practically empty. There is not a soul on the town’s long embankment. Thirty thousand people used to live here, only 6,000 of Abkhazians, and all others—Georgians. Now there are these 6,000 only. Nearly all refugees returned to the neighboring region of Gali, but no one returned to Ochamchira.

Why won’t Georgians return? “Because Abkhazians don’t let them. Because all Georgians fought against Abkhazians here. In Gali, people simply escaped to Georgia to avoid war. Here, each of them killed. The land here is saturated with blood. It won’t dry out for another century,” said Alkhas.

Gali region is predominantly inhabited by Georgian residents, Megrels. They gathered for a meeting in the center of Gali. Abkhazia asks them to choose between itself and Georgia. Megrels feel the distrust of their compatriots, and have to constantly prove their loyalty to Sukhumi. This time, 400 people gathered on the central square of Gali and spoke of their distrust to “young Georgian authorities who want to wage war”. They called the operation in Kodori a provocation, Minister Okruashvili—an aggressor, and plans of Georgian authorities—invasive.

Gali residents were forced to leave their homes once. They do not want war again. One of the protesters said: “If they are transferring government to Kodori, it means they are plotting some kind of operation. We must not allow this. Do not touch our homes! Let us live in peace!” Megrels of Gali ratified an address to Presidents Bagapsh and Saakashvili asking them not to exacerbate the situation and not to allow the government-in-exile to mote to Kodori. The address also said that, if necessary, Gali people will fight to protect Abkhazia, not because they are traitors, but because homeland is where you live.

“Saakashvili will get stuck in Kodori”

Ruslan Kishmaria is now the representative of Abkhaz president in Gali. Sukhumi pays attention to what he says. He knows everything going on the other side of Inguri, and he has his own vision of Georgia’s policy.

“Saakashvili wanted to achieve 2 aims—sort it out with Kvitsiani, and take over Kodori,” says Kishmaria. “Georgians gathered forces and led them up to the mountains, officially-- to capture Kvitsiani. They could descend down the gorge to 106-107 peacekeepers’ block posts, and then Sukhumi would be very near. This was Shevardnadze’s plan, he also tried to begin from the Kodori gorge. Yet, the weather spoiled their plans. There was a strong flood in the mountains, it washed away bridges. Besides, Kvitsiani is at home in the mountains. And now Saakashvili is trying to save the situation by bringing the government-in-exile to Kodori. They try to plant this unfortunate government there for the third time.”

Kishmaria said: “Kvitsiani could have resisted Georgian troops, but he didn’t. If he wanted to, he could have exploded Khida mountain passage, and Saakashvili would be still removing fallen rocks. These are the 2 reasons why I cannot consider him to be either Abkhaz or Russian agent. He fought against Abkhazia, he is wanted for killing a policemen and for attacking Kodori together with terrorist Gelaev. We will not help him, certainly. But he can hide as long as he wants. I know these mountains well too.”

Kishmaria added Abkhazia will not have a second government on its territory. He said Abkhaz forces will come through 3 mountain passages—Tkvarchal, Latu, and volunteers will come from North Caucasus. He added that some 300 volunteers have already arrived, but were sent back for now, because it is holiday season. Kishmaria explained that people have serious intentions, and that Saakashvili will get stuck in Kodori.

Our Lady cries foreboding war

Head of Gali region administration Yuri Kvikviskhiri says that Megrels will support Abkhazia if a new war begins. He believes that Gali residents will fight for their homes, and that they wouldn’t have returned to Gali if they could find a better place to live in. Besides, Georgia regards them as traitors.

On the empty streets of Gali, black-framed portraits of young men hang on the walls of the houses. Women in Gali wear black only—because it is always mourning there.

In 12-century-old church of Nicholas-Miracle-Maker in Ilori village, 7 icons discharge myrrh. It is a good sign for the church (it is believed to be the sign of God’s grace), but a bad omen for the people. When Our Lady cries, it means a terrible disaster is coming.

Olga Allenova, Abkhazia

The U.S. Supports Operation in Kodori

US Secretary of State for Europe and Eurasia issues Matthew Brise came to Tbilisi yesterday. After talks with President Mikhail Saakashvili, Foreign Minister Gela Bezhuashvili, and Parliament Speaker Nino Burdjanadze, the American official called the special operation in the upper part of the Kodori gorge legal. He believes it is carried out “against criminal elements, to protect the rights and interests of Georgian citizens”. Brise assured the U.S. supports the actions of Georgian authorities. According to US Embassy in Tbilisi, questions of peacefully settling Abkhazia and South Ossetia conflicts, of integrating Georgia into European-Atlantic structures, and of helping Georgia to carry out democratic reforms, were also discussed during the talks.

Tornike Stories

Archimandrate Tornike Stories
June 2006

Tornike is a 92 year old monk, who lives virtually alone in the Motsameta Monastery in western Georgia. He is full of stories and when we visited on the Luarsab-John Monastery Tour 2006, he came to greet us and told us these jewels:



Tornike Stories…. as told to members of the Monastery Tour, June 2006


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Getting eaten (or almost) by Wolves

When I was a young man, I would travel around to the most remote monasteries on foot, tramping through the woods. I would live there for a time, and clean them out, make them habitable for prayer. You know, in those days, the shepherds would keep their flocks in the churches, and no one looked after the place, so they became very dirty.

One winter afternoon, as it was getting dark, I was walking through the woods near a church, and I began to hear the calling of wolves all around me. I walked a ways, but soon I realized they were getting closer. I couldn’t see them, but I decided to climb into a tree. Before I did though, I wrote a letter telling anyone who might find it, to please check on me, in the church ahead, and if I wasn’t there, to search for my remains as I had been attacked by wolves. Then I climbed to a high branch, and tied myself there with my belt.

All night long, huge mountain wolves, with bared fangs, leaped and howled at me, clawing at the tree trunk and slobbering their hunger and malice into the most agonizing baying. Their noise alone nearly killed me. It was bitterly cold, and I stayed in the tree trunk the whole night.

The next day, I climbed weakly down from my perch onto the trampled and matted snow, wolf tracks now clearly visible in the mud, and stumbled feverishly to the church. As I lay there, weak and sick, I suddenly heard the sound of approaching horsemen. They stormed up, asking, are you Tornike!? ‘Yes, I am’ I responded. They had read my distress letter, and come to find me!


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The case of the Russian general and how I came to be exiled in Siberia for life:

It became a custom in Communist times for the people to return to their churches not for services or prayer, but for parties and picnics in the church yards. I tolerated this nuisance, for the people sometimes secretly wanted my blessings, and came into the church to pray.

Once when I was living in Zedazani monastery, a Russian official, a general or someone high in the government, was partying with his friends. He insisted I join them, so I sat at their campfire and we told stories. The Russian was quite drunk, and repeatedly kept insulting our sainted King Tamar, greatest of Georgian leaders. He bated me, saying, come monk, isn’t it true that your Tamar was the same as our Catherine, sleeping with any man, then cutting their heads off in the same night?!

I lost my cool, and standing, told him King Tamar was a saint to me, that I said prayers for her every day, and it was an insult what he had said. Take it back, I demanded. He said it again, even worse.

I pushed him then, and he tumbled backwards. Unfortunately the fire was right there, and he fell in and burned his face. I felt bad for that later, because I had not intended to injure him.

In a few days time, the police came to get me. I was held for several days, then sentenced to death. Later they reduced it to life in prison because I had some friends here and there, people that knew me from Zedazani monastery. They sent me to Siberia. (1950s)


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How I survived cancer and escaped from Siberia

I lived in Siberia nine years, but it was such a harsh life, I fell very ill. I was like a skeleton, barely living. The doctors said I had stomach cancer and would not live much longer. I begged a doctor to write me a letter, and taking it to the authorities of the prisoncamp, I said, please let me go to die in my homeland.

They let me go, because I didn’t look like I would even survive one more week.

In a dream, a shining woman appeared to me, and told me to eat certain herbs. I had studied medicine as a young man, so I knew which herbs she was talking about. The next day, I found these herbs, and began to eat them. Before long I was completely healed.

I returned to Georgia, and became a monk again.


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How I went to America as a girl’s field-hockey coach

I had some relatives in San Francisco, who were always begging me to come visit. Of course this was nearly impossible for me, or for anyone at that time, but nevertheless they would invite me.

I developed a great wish to go there, and once I was telling some fine young men about this desire I had –at that time I didn’t know that they were involved in the mafia, and one good looking young man said, father, I will send you to America!

To get a visa was very difficult. But a girl’s field hockey team was going from Georgia to San Francisco for a tournament. They put me on the list of people who were absolutely essential to the team, and when they questioned me in the United States embassy, I said, ‘my monastery looks down on their playing field. I used to pray for them, and over time, they got to know me, and I would pray before all their games. Now, they must have me at every game to pray for them, and feel themselves strong in a distant world.’

So I went to San Francisco and surprised all my relatives.


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How I went to Paris to collect my uncle’s body

My uncle fled from Georgia before the Bolshevik revolution, and lived out the rest of his days in France. His lifelong wish was to be buried back in Georgia, but since he had died, no one had been able to act on his wish.

I became obsessed with the idea of doing this act for my uncle, and for my family, but I had no money to travel back and forth to France. Once, when I was describing my desire to travel to France with some colleagues, I was totally surprised when one young man volunteered to finance my trip. I didn’t know at the time that he was part of the mafia, or I would not have accepted the money, but anyway, I had my chance to go to France.

Somehow, I was granted a visa –this was in the 1970s – and I traveled to France. It took me a long time to find my Uncle’s graveyard, the place where he was buried. I asked everyone, but no one seemed to remember. I was talking to people on the street, people in stores, I even went to the mayor of the town, and other city council people. By the time I found the body, I was famous. And there was a ceremony for my Uncle when we dug up his coffin. You know, the mayor was so taken with me coming, that he made the paperwork easy, and he even paid for the body to be returned to Georgia.